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30 something hours of travel later we are safely in amarillo. Brandon has a high fever and I feel overall terrible. We are going to the minor emergency clinic this morning when they open. Everything feels strange in my stomach, including plain crackers and campbells soup.

my neck is ok. it just feels like i got a swift punch to the jugular, but the swelling has stopped and even gone down. we never made it to the clinic, because the next morning we woke up with cydney feeling terrible. sore throat, upset stomach, and her entire body hurting. the only thing going for us was no fever or chills. so, we spent the day in bed trying to rest and restore our bodies. she is feeling better today, most of it gone except the nausea. our flight is not until 5:30, and she will be resting in the room until it is time to go to the airport. hopefully she starts feeling better or this is going to be an even longer journey back home.
ok, just wanted to give you a little update.
love you guys, and see you soon.

More imagery

Will arrive in amarillo on 22nd of November, notice brandon getting an awkward massage as a cow watches.

We arrived safely in kolkata after a very long night train. Varanasi was fascinating, but we are thrilled to be away from it. Congested with cars, bikes, motorcycles, people, pollution, cows, goats and dogs the city was suffocating. The tiny narrow alleyways were confusing and littered with rubbish and terrible cow diahrea landmines. You cannot imagine the smell. The cow-considered holy- roam the streets of urban varanasi eating whatever they can manage to find (mostly trash and plastic). Sadly and ironically, the cows/buffalo are dying a slow painfull death as the plastic strangles their digestive tract. The holy ganges river is the place of excitement in this city. Millions of hindus come to varanasi to die and end the cycle of rebirth. All day people come to the river to do laundry, bathe, wash their buffalo, and cremate their relatives. The most affecting were the burning ghats where up to 130 cremations a day take place. A giant platform of wood is completed with a corpse that is doused in butter and lit on fire. Seeing entrails and bone of burning corpses was an image worse than the latest horror films. Not all are cremated-children under 10, lepers, small pox, sadhus and a few others are simply caste into the river (more recently tied to a slab of concrete).

The holy ganges has no free molecules of oxygen-making it septic, and is 1.5 million times the amount of fecal-coliform considered safe to bathe in. Everyday sewege and trash flows freely into the sacred waters. People drink the water eagerly as they bathe.

Yesterday, as we were eating lunch brandon was again complaining of a sore neck (as he had been for several days) and upon closer inspection, deep within his beard was a tick that had been feasting since our time in the jungle. We returned to the hotel to get tweezers and the ganga fugi family looked on in horror as I touched a blown out match head to his face. The little sucker came out but he still has a sore neck and a little bit of swelling. We will probably go to the health clinic to make sure its nothing serious tomorrow morning. Anxious to be home, we miss you all very much.

Kolkata-Delhi- 5pm
Layover
Delhi- Chicago- 1am (10hours)
Layover
Chicago-DFW-8am
Layover
DFW-Amarillo- arrive 12:40pm

Backtrack

From the park we took a 4 hour rattleing shrine on wheels to the border of nepal where we got on another 5 hour bus/ rattling honking light up shrine on wheels to Gorkhapur, where we got a train for the next day to varanasi (7 hours). We are worn out tired of traveling and not wanting to spend any more money than we have to so we are coming home. The airlines will charge us 600 dollars to fly from delhi, but if we go back to kolkata (even though it is an extra flight) they will only charge us 100 dollars. So back to kolkata it is on a 14 hour train in the next day or two, then home in time for thanksgiving and some real food.

To Varanasi

Sorry it has been so long since the last posting, we were unable to find a reliable internet source in the jungle or near our new hotel. My (cydney) email account with WT has changed and I am not able to access it until I call (long distance) and set up a new address. Email brandon at motomobile2k@gmail.com . We reached varanasi and took a boat down the river this morning at 6am to see the ghats. It was not as enchanting as we were led to belive and could hardly see anything due to the amount of tourist boats. We have a clean room here with a nice family that owns the hotel. The bathroom is shared but has hot water. From Pokhara we took an air conditioned bus for 7 hours to the Chitwan park. Upon arrival we were mobbed by touts who's job is to get you to a speific hotel (but with inflated rates to pay the middleman). We ignored them and walked into the tiny town from the bus stand. We found the crocodile safari lodge with very helpful owners who helped us plan our entire day at the park. The rooms were hut like with grass roofs and mosquito nets around the bed. We began the next day at 6 with a canoe down the river (a dug out tree that I was sure was going to dump us in the croc infested waters). We made it to a bank down the river and were about to proceed on our jungle walk when our guide paused and gave us a quick briefing. " Now if rhino charges, climb 6 meter into tree, if you cannot climb tree, run around tree-keep between you and rhino, if there is no tree run zig zag. If Bear we make group and make loud noise. If tiger we pray, there is nothing you can do. With a new sense of anxiety we began our walk and found a peacock, a large group of monkeys and spotted deer. Our guide suddenly stopped, crouched low to the ground and peered into the bush, nothing. We kept walking and I stopped because on the road were perfectly shaped giant paw prints-Tiger! Left not too long before we came. Our guide had stopped earlier because he could "smell" a tiger. Fortunately that was as close as we got. We did get to see a giant marsh mugger croc on the bank of the river- they are very aggresive and known to eat people. The term "mug" comes from this prehistoric animal as it sneaks up and grabs people- no lie! Upon reurn we wanted to participate in an elephant bath where we thought we could get closer to these giant animals. Little did we know it was us that would have a bathing. We climbed on top of the elephant from a plaform and it sprayed us with water from its trunk and we fell into the river. We climbed on again-this time from holding the ears and being lifted by her trunk up onto he head. We had more fun-and got lots of pictues. Later we took the elephant safari and got to ride an elephant into the jungle. We were able to see even more wildlife because the elephants disturb it less than people walking or jeeps. Coming to a clearing we came upon a lone rhino grazing peecefully-it was really incredible- we were maybe only 50 feet from the thing! Our overenthusiastic guide took our picture and insisted on making our elephant move quickley (and rather uncomfortably) to cover more gound. We finished the day worn out but pleased with our journey.

In the Dark]

So in recent news the fish I ate made me really sick and I (cydney) spent all of sunday with a really bad stomach ache amoung other things. . . It's sad to think that my body is rejecting meat now that it has been so long not having it. On a brighter note, yesterday brandon and I walked through the city of pokhara on our way to find some caves. About two hours of walking around in the hot sun we found ourselves lost and took the next taxi for about 2$ to the caves. Finding your way around in these cities is difficult even with a map because there are no street signs. Mostly we walk down a street until we find a sign that is in english that maybe has an address. Lucky for me, brandon typically has an amazing sense of direction and has navigated us through these crazy cities with very little error. Upon arrival to the first cave entrance we were greeted by Krishna who insisted upon being our guide (for a fee of course), and axiously took us to see our first cave which was lit by small bulbs and popular with indian/hindu tourists. The next cave was totally different and we were led down a small black hole into a pitch dark cave. Fortunatly having krishna and his torch we made our way deep into this cave, at times crawling on our hands and knees, to a broad opening in the center of the cave. Krishna shone his light upwards and we were amazed to see thousands of horseshoe bats hanging high above our heads. Continuing we crawled up through a small tunnell and into the daylight. Our trusty guide had another cave to show us that he said was about a forty five minute walk. We agreed to go and followed his rapid pace on footpaths through fields of wheat that the women were harvesting by hand. We passed small houses and stables and were led down into a gorge where we crossed a creaky bridge and were led up about a million stone stairs before decending into the mouth of a well hidden cave. This cave was spectacular and had large stalactites and stalagmites created from the small drips of water coming down from the top of the cave. Some of the formations looked more alien than the typical peaks we would imagine, and tiny crystals sparkled in the limestone when hit with light. Climbing out into the sun we began our journey back with aching muscles and hungry stomachs. Another couple of hours and we were finally back at the guest house to clean up for dinner. Tomorrow we begin our next adventure and will take a bus to the royal chittwan national park in south central nepal. The park has over 50 species of animals including tigers, leopards, rhinos, monkeys, sloths, deer, crocodiles, and freshwater dolphins.

for your eyes

Invasion!

After a very long time spent waiting around at the airport we made it to Pokhara. We are staying at a small guest house where the proceeds benefit a child welfare organization. The shower has warm water from solar panels on the roof, and we were super excited because the place had two guest towels in the room! What a luxury! Sadly, upon returning from a very long day hike to the world peace pagoda (an 1,100 meter climb), we discovered a colony of sugar ants that had invaded our room. Brandon killed most of them and left their tiny bodies as a warning to the others. . . Currently we just finished dinner at an amazing place where I had fish from the lake (the first meat I have had in at least a month) , and mashed potatoes and broccoli. Probably the only balanced meal I have had since we have been here. The meat markets have been enough to make anyones stomach turn and I am refusing to eat red meat until we get home (at least) The poor animals get tied up outside of the market stalls unknowing of their fate, and nothing is ever refrigerated much less free of flies. If someone put a steak in front of me I would refuse to eat it.

24 revolutions

we made it to kathmandu (just incase you were wondering. sorry it took couple of days to post).
tuesday was a long day of traveling. cydney got super carsick on the way down the mountain, and im sure that she was ready to kill me for not letting her out of the jeep. we got the worst seats (the very back, facing sideways), and the roads were filled with potholes, very narrow, lots of speeding up and slamming on the breaks. it was not good. but we made it, and she doesnt hate me anymore (and next time we will get the front seats). karma has a way of coming around, and i spent this morning with every "valve" in my body open. possible from the tibetan-mexican food from yesterday. who knows...
the first day here we spent walking around the city. Mostly temples/gompas/etc. and we were impressed to see giant trees that had burst out of the shrines. We visited some of the oldest areas of the city and ducked down a small alley and down under a small archway to find a large courtyard of women shifting grain (a form of meditation, similar to zen gardens). Walking on we found durbar square an area totally packed with over 50 temples. People go there to worship, to sell produce and in our case to model their photogenity. (A religious man wearing bright orange with dreadlocks to the ground and some crazy facepaint.) he insisted upon our need for photos with him and we obliged. After brandon started feeling better we spent today walking around then went to a bollywood movie. We lasted about an hour and a half before deciding to leave at intermission. Afterwards we had some of the best pizza at a restaurant down the street complete with chocolate cake and icecream (in honor of his 24 th birthday, and my love of cake). Tomorrow we will fly to pokhara where things supposedly move a little bit slower. Its a small town in a valley by a lake. Supposedly has the best views in nepal. We will write again soon.
love,
cyd and a very old golden boy

Travel, Toilets, and a Critter

Our time in darjeeling is coming to a close and we will be leaving for Nepal on Tuesday. First we will take a share jeep to Silliguri (2 hours), and from there another share jeep to Nepal. After boarder crossing and getting our visas, we have a plane for Kathmandu (1 hour flight), then several days later another plane for Pokara (20 minutes by plane). It is possible to take a bus, but the journey can take up to 30 hours due to construction and road conditions, and despite the cost flying was the only way I (cydney) agreed to go. After our 14hr train ride (complete with tiny roaches in the bed) , I want to hold off on super long public transportation. Also, on the train, brandon failed to mention the toilet situation. Indian toilets are totally different and are known as " squat" toilets. True to their name you squat over a hole with your feet on either side, which proves to be quite a feat on a moving train. Also, you have to supply your own toilet paper (even at hotels) and there is no flush. The hotels usually have "sit" or flush toilets as it is the western travelers preference. Oddly our room has a curious looking combo-toilet with foot pads under the seat on either side. . . Fortunately our room here has a hot water shower for an hour and a half in the evening (kolkata did not) but it is also much much colder here. Our room is nice and has wood lined painted walls and a large window with a view of the hills and the himalayas. Fortunately we invested in nice sleeping bags because the room is not heated and gets quite cold at night. We recently went on a mission for a hairdryer so that I can wash my hair and not freeze all night. The hairdryer looks like a toy, but has proven to work sufficiently for four dollars.
As we were laying in bed the other night I heard some scratching and shuffling coming from the corner of the room..."Brandon. . .'yeah' . . .I think there's a critter". No response. "Brandon did you hear me? I think there's a critter, can we turn on the light?" Brandon gets out of bed turns on the light and begins to look under the bed and my stuff. He found a hole in the wall and shoved a water bottle into it assuming the amimal had left. He continued looking for holes and suddenly jumped 3 feet in the air as a little blck mouse lept from underneath his backpack and ran into the bathroom out the drain.
We shut the bathroom door now.